Monday, May 3, 2010

Preserved Lemons and What To Do With Them

Preserved lemons aren't just for use on Moroccan dishes. Mince preserved lemons and sprinkle over the top of spring vegetable soups, like fresh peas, broccoli, asparagus or leeks. Or serve roasted or grilled chicken with wedges of preserved lemon (or minced). Or mince preserved lemon peel and sprinkle on top of slow-cooked meats, like short ribs and braised pork.

Make a gremolata by grating preserved lemon peel and mixing with minced garlic and parsley, and sprinkle over osso buco and other meat stews, soups, stews, grilled poultry, fish and meats and rice dishes.

Preserved Lemons:

12 to 16 lemons
1 cup kosher salt
3 T sugar

quart jar

Wash 8 to 12 (depending on size; you'll need enough lemons wedges to fill a quart jar) of the lemons thoroughly and place them in a large crock or glass bowl. Set the other lemons aside to make juice to cover the preserved lemons.

Dissolve a tablespoon of salt in a quart of water and pour it over the lemons. If it does not cover the lemons, mix more brine (use the same ratio of salt to water) and pour it over until it covers them. Cover and set aside for 1 day. (You can make the preserved lemons at this point, or you can cover them with new brine daily for up to 7 days.)

Rinse and dry the brined lemons. Cut each lemon into 6 to 8 lengthwise wedges. Place them in a large bowl and toss with 3/4 cup of the remaining salt and the sugar. Toss thoroughly and pack into a sterilized quart glass jar. Juice the reserved lemons and pour the juice over the sliced lemons. If it does not cover them completely, add fresh water until the lemons are completely covered. Cover the jar with heavy duty plastic wrap or parchment and then seal with its lid.

Set the jar of lemons in a cool dark cupboard for a week, giving it a good shaking once or twice a day. At the end of a week, move the jar to the refrigerator and use the preserved lemons within a year or so.

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Preserved Lemon Gremolata

2 cups, loosely packed, Italian parsley leaves and small stems
5 or 6 preserved lemon wedges, peel only, minced
4 to 5 garlic cloves, crushed and minced

Combine and toss minced parsley, minced lemon peel and minced garlic. Use within a day or two.


Makes 1/2 cup

Variation: Add 1/2 to 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes.

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Preserved lemon tapenade can be served with artichokes, roasted asparagus, sauteed greens and almost any grilled fish. Also great on bruschetta spread with sheep's milk ricotta, farmers cheese or creme fraiche.

Preserved Lemon Tapenade:

3 garlic cloves, crushed
3 anchovy fillets, rinsed and drained
2-3 preserved lemon wedges, peel and flesh separated
2 teaspoons green peppercorns in brine, drained, or 1 T capers, drained
1 cup (6 ounces) cracked green olives, pitted and minced
1 T minced fresh Italian parsley
kosher salt, if needed
freshly ground black pepper
extra virgin olive oil

Grind the garlic and anchovy fillets into a paste with a mortar and pestle. Set aside the preserved lemon peel and add the flesh to the garlic paste; grind until the mixture is smooth. Add the green peppercorns or capers, crush them and mix them into the paste; they should retain a bit of texture.

Minced the lemon peel.

Use a small rubber spatula to fold the minced lemon peel, minced olives and parsley into the garlic paste.

Cover and let rest for 20 minutes. Taste and correct for salt, if necessary. Season with several turns of black pepper and stir in the olive oil. Serve at room temperature. Use within a day or two.

Makes 3/4 cup

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Serve this relish with roasted chicken or chicken braised in sherry or Madeira. Also good tossed with steamed couscous, and as a good condiment with almost any stew.

Preserved Lemon Relish:

1 shallot, minced
5 or 6 preserved lemon wedges, seeded and minced
1/2 cup minced fresh Italian parsley
1 T fresh oregano, minced
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves, minced
kosher salt, if needed
freshly ground black pepper
3 T extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup pine nuts, lightly toasted

Combine the shallots, preserved lemons, parsley, oregano and thyme and toss gently. Taste and correct for salt, if necessary. Add several turns of black pepper and stir in the olive oil. Add the pine nuts and toss gently. Use immediately or store in the refrigerator, covered, for 2 to 3 days.

Makes 3/4 cup

Variation: Use 1/4 cup parsley and replace the oregano and thyme with 1/4 cup minced fresh cilantro leaves. Use chopped toasted walnuts in place of the pine nuts. For a mildly spicy version, remove the stem and seeds of a small serrano, mince it and fold it into the relish.

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Sauteed Flounder with Preserved Lemon Butter:

2 flounder fillets
1/2 cup all purpose flour
kosher salt
freshly ground pepper
2-3 T butter
2 T juice of preserved lemons (or fresh lemon juice)

Preserved Lemon Gremolata, Tapenade or Relish

Season the flour with salt and pepper and sprinkle it all over the fish, rubbing gently with your fingers to coat the fish thoroughly.

Melt 1-2 tablespoons of butter in a sauté pan set over high heat. Add the fillets and sauté for 2 minutes. Turn the fillets, add half the remaining butter and half the juice and swirl the pan to distribute it evenly. Cook for 3 minutes and transfer the fillets to warm plates. Return the pan to the heat, add the remaining butter and remaining juice and swirl the pan until the butter just melts. Pour the lemon butter over the fish. Top with gremolata, tapenade or relish.

Serves 2

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