The Best Macaroni & Cheese

Ingredients:
8 T (1 stick) unsalted butter, plus more for casserole
6 slices good quality white bread (Brother Juniper’s Struan), crusts removed, torn into 1/4- to l/2-inch pieces
5 1/2 cups milk
1/2 cup all purpose flour
2 teaspoons coarse salt, plus more for water
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
4 1/2 cups (about 18 ounces) grated sharp white cheddar cheese
2 cups (about 8 ounces) grated gruyère or 1 1/4 cups (about 5 ounces) grated pecorino romano cheese
1 pound dried pasta, either elbow macaroni or small penne

Variation: Add 6 slices of bacon, cut into halves or thirds crosswise, to the water to boil the pasta and discard when the pasta is done.

Preparing the macaroni and cheese:
Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

Butter a 3-quart casserole dish; set aside.

Place the bread in a medium bowl.

In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons butter. Pour the melted butter into the bowl with the bread, and toss. Set the breadcrumbs aside.

Warm the milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat.

Melt the remaining 6 tablespoons butter in a high-sided skillet over medium heat.

When the butter bubbles, add the flour. Cook, stirring, 1 minute.

While whisking, slowly pour in the hot milk a little at a time to keep mixture smooth. Continue cooking, whisking constantly, until the mixture bubbles and becomes thick, 8 to 12 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in salt, nutmeg, black pepper, cayenne pepper, 3 cups cheddar cheese, and 1 1/2 cups Gruyère (or 1 cup Pecorino Romano); set the cheese sauce aside.

Cover a large pot of salted water, and bring to a boil. Cook the macaroni until the outside of pasta is cooked and the inside is underdone, 2 to 3 minutes.

Transfer the macaroni to a colander, rinse under cold running water, and drain well.

Stir the macaroni into the reserved cheese sauce.

Pour the mixture into the prepared dish. Sprinkle the remaining 1 1/2 cups cheddar cheese, 1/2 cup gruyère (or 1/4 cup pecorino romano), and the breadcrumbs over the top.

Bake until golden brown, about 30 minutes. Transfer the dish to a wire rack for 5 minutes; serve.